To date, Indonesia still utilizes and imports synthetic dyes for textiles in large capacity. On the other hand, Indonesia boasts a cultural tradition of employing natural dyes, known for their significant benefits to bodily well-being. In addition, Indonesia also has abundant natural resources and biodiversity—the source of raw material for natural dyes, although unfortunately so far it has not been well-exploited. On the other hand, the era of globalization is marked by the existence of free markets in the world, the place where all products are superior, competitive, and use environmentally friendly technology. Products with natural dyes can meet such specifications, thus having a promising opportunity to compete in the world market. Therefore, efforts to produce and recycle natural dyes are imperative to minimize the usage of hazardous synthetic dyes and reduce the importation of synthetic colorants.

There are four key factors for sustainable economic development, namely: 1) investment or capital; 2) human resources; 3) natural resources; and 4) technology. When compared to such factors, it can be said that the natural dye industry in Indonesia is very strong in factors 1 to 3. Nevertheless, there remains one factor that needs to be enhanced in the context of the production of natural dyes, which is the pillar of technology.

The multidisciplinary researchers of natural dye UGM united at the Indonesia Natural Dye Institute (INDI UGM). The existence of this institution is intended to contribute to the improvement of the pillar of technology for the production of natural dyes. INDI UGM has a vision of becoming a means and reference for education, research, development, and the procurement of natural dyes for healthy (human-environment) and prosperous (economically independent) Indonesia. INDI UGM has received appreciation from many parties, among them is consolidation as the Center of Excellence of IPTEKS Colleges (PUI-PT) in the field of natural coloring by DIKTI (2021-2023), as well as consolidation as UNESCO Chair on Research and Education of Local Natural Dyes (April 2023).

The INDI UGM institute is currently engaged in research and development endeavours pertaining to a machine known as GamaWarni, designed for the utilization of natural dyes. The research has two long-term objectives, namely: 1) can be produced with a standard natural dyeing on a commercial scale that is competitive with synthetic dyes; and 2) can apply natural dyeing on the scale of the craftsman (manual) and industrial (mechanical). The specific objectives of this research are to produce natural dyes suitable for dyeing fabrics and threads with machines, compile the specifications of the natural dyes, make a machine for dyeing fabric and thread with natural dyes, apply the natural dyes to manual dyeing in textiles and thread, and obtain HKI on these research results.

The research is scheduled to span a duration of three years, guided by the background, objectives, and directives outlined by Rispro Commercial. The stages of activity in the three years are as follows: 1) making a fabric dyeing machine with natural dye with reference to the manual-dyeing technique and mechanization studies carried out in the partner industry; 2) measuring and testing the quality and speed of production with testing criteria based on the quality of the coloring product, the speed of the production, and the ease of workers in the operation of the machine; 3) perfectioning the machine that has been produced and tested to meet the quality parameters of the product; 4) testing the machine and natural dyes produced by one of the industries owned by H&M’s partner; 5) making manuals and complete specifications for the machine and natural dyes; 6) compiling certification documents for natural dyeing and the machine; 7) obtaining patents and scientific publications; 8) compiling marketing cooperation documents; 9) compiling production and marketing documentation of natural dyeing and the machine; and 10) products and natural dyeing machine launching.

To achieve such purposes, a multidisciplinary research team is formed, which consists of: 1) the Chemical Engineering Study Program of UGM with specialization in the production of natural dyes and dyeing technologies; 2) the Mechanical Design and Machinery Study Program of ATMI Solo Polytechnic with specialization in mechanical engineering and workshop management; as well as 3) the Engineering and Industry Engineering Study Program of UGM with industrial-ergonomic and productivity engineering specialization. On the other hand, the selected industry partners are: 1) PT ATMI Solo which is engaged in precision parts, machinery, sheet metal fabrication, and special purpose machine and will produce machines; 2) H&M Puls Trading Far East Ltd as one of the largest fashion companies in the world; and 3) Wanabakti Nusantara Housing Cooperative (KPWN).

The funding source of this research is the Educational Fund Management Institution (Lembaga Pengelola Dana Pendidikan; LPDP) in the scheme of Innovative-Productive Research (Riset Inovatif-Produktif; Rispro) Commercial, the Ministry of Finance of the Republic of Indonesia.

If the assessment of this research is predicated upon its outputs, it can be asserted that the objectives set for the first, second, and third years have been achieved. Nevertheless, when gauged in terms of broader-scale impacts or outcomes, one might discern that this endeavor remains incomplete and requires further assiduous efforts. It is undeniable that the fashion industry, significantly affected during the pandemic, continues to grapple with challenges. Despite the pandemic transitioning into an endemic phase, the global crisis stemming from the Russia-Ukraine war has ushered in a deceleration in the pace of the fashion industry. Consequently, it is anticipated that this current condition will soon abate, facilitating the recovery of the fashion industry both in Indonesia and worldwide.

GamaWarni has been launched, downstream, and used with hopes of accelerating the revival of natural dyes in Indonesia for the actualization of a generation that is healthy and independent of dyes. Establishing a collaborative and mutually beneficial partnership encompassing various stakeholders within ABCGM (Academician, Business, Community, Government, and Media) requires dedicated effort and steadfast commitment, as this undertaking is inherently challenging.

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Research Identity

Research Title:
The Mechanization of Fabric and Thread Coloring Technology with Natural Dyes as a Means of Accelerating Natural Dyeing Applications

Research Group :
Prof. Dr. Ir. Edia Rahayuningsih, MS., IPU
Bayu Prabandono, S.T., M.T. 
Ir. Rini Dharmastiti. M.Sc. PhD 

Initiator:
Universitas Gadjah Mada

Partner:
PT ATMI Solo, H&M Group, dan KPWN

Funding Source:
Riset Inovatif-Produktif (Rispro) Komersial Lembaga Pengelola Dana Pendidikan (LPDP), Kementerian Keuangan Republik Indonesia

Stanford University has released a list of the most influential researchers in 2023. Within this list, five researchers from Universitas Gadjah Mada (UGM) have secured a position in the Top 2% World Ranking Scientists. Published in October 2023 by Prof. John Ioannidis of Stanford University, along with Jeroen Baas and Kevin Boyack, this compilation comprises over 100,000 scientists whose works are frequently cited by their peers, establishing them as highly influential figures in the global research community.

The number of UGM researchers and faculty members included in the Top 2% World Ranking Scientists list has seen an increase of two individuals compared to the previous year’s count of three in 2021. This increase stands as evidence that the quality of UGM researchers is capable of competing globally.

UGM researchers who have previously been included in the Top 2% World Ranking Scientists list by Stanford University are: 1) Prof. Dr. Abdul Rohman, S.F., M.Si., Apt. from the Faculty of Pharmacy, with an h-index of 34 and 357 published works; 2) Prof. Dr.rer.nat. Muh Aris Marfai, S.Si., M.Sc. from the Faculty of Geography, with an h-index of 18 and 107 published works; and 3) Prof. Dr. Ahmad Maryudi, S.Hut., M.For. from the Faculty of Forestry, with an h-index of 25 and 76 published works.

In the latest prestigious list released by Stanford University, two new names from UGM have successfully entered the Top 2% World Ranking Scientist for the year 2023. These individuals are: 1) Prof. Drs. Sri Juari Santosa, M.Eng., Ph.D. from the Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, boasting an h-index of 18 and 133 published works; and 2) Prof. Dra. Wega Trisunaryanti, M.S., Ph.D., Eng. from the Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, with an h-index of 16 and 127 published works. The Directorate of Research at UGM extends heartfelt congratulations to these five researchers for their remarkable achievements, further solidifying UGM’s position as a world-class research university. Here are brief profiles of the five researchers.

1. Dr. Abdul Rohman, S.F., M.Si., Apt.

Prof. Dr. Abdul Rohman, S.F., M.Si., Apt., is a Professor at the Faculty of Pharmacy, UGM. He obtained his Bachelor’s and Master’s degrees from the Faculty of Pharmacy, UGM, between 2002 and 2006. His doctoral degree was conferred by the Halal Products Research Institute at Universiti Putra Malaysia in the field of Halal Food Analysis in 2011. His research focus lies in the analysis of the halal status of products and the authentication of food and pharmaceutical products. His expertise has earned him accolades, including the Young Scientist Scopus Award in 2014, the Extraordinary Intellectual Property (IP) Award in the Field of International Publications from the Ministry of Research and Technology in 2014, and the responsibility of leading the Center of Excellence for Science and Technology (PUI-PT IHIS UGM).

2. Dr.rer.nat. Muh Aris Marfai, S.Si., M.Sc.

Prof. Dr.rer.nat. Muh Aris Marfai, S.Si., M.Sc., is a Professor specializing in Disaster Geomorphology at the Faculty of Geography, UGM. He earned his bachelor’s degree from the Faculty of Geography, UGM, in 1998, and his master’s degree after completing studies at the International Institute for Geo Information Science and Earth Observation (ITC) in the Netherlands in 2003. Furthermore, he obtained his doctoral degree from Justus-Liebig-Universitaet, Giessen, Germany, in 2008. His interest and expertise in coastal geomorphology have led him to play a significant role in formulating the Continental Shelf Bill, aiming to extend Indonesia’s continental shelf boundaries up to 350 nautical miles under the UNCLOS agreement. He has been entrusted with the position of Head of the Geospatial Information Agency (BIG) since January 2021.

3. Dr. Ahmad Maryudi, S.Hut., M.For.

Prof. Dr. Ahmad Maryudi, S.Hut., M.For., is a Professor at the Faculty of Forestry, UGM, specializing in forest policy and governance, particularly in relation to actors, interests, and power relations. He earned his bachelor’s degree from UGM, while his master’s degree in forest policy was obtained after completing studies at The Australian National University. Additionally, he holds a doctoral degree in forest development policy from Göttingen University. His various research and publications on forestry policy and governance, including community forest policy and social forestry, have led him to contribute significantly to the Indonesian government, particularly during international negotiations on forests and land. He currently serves as the Deputy Coordinator of the Forest Policy & Economics Division at the International Union of Forest Research Organizations (IUFRO).

4. Drs. Sri Juari Santosa, M.Eng., Ph.D.

Prof. Drs. Sri Juari Santosa, M.Eng., Ph.D., is a Professor at the Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences (MIPA), UGM. He obtained his bachelor’s degree from the Faculty of MIPA, UGM, while his master’s and doctoral degrees were earned after completing studies at Keio University in 1993 and 1997, respectively. His research focuses on addressing heavy metal pollution in the environment and hazardous dyes using synthetic adsorbents and selective adsorbents based on Indonesian natural materials. His expertise in the field of Green Synthesis and the Application of materials for valuable chemical Recovery and Environmental Remediation has garnered recognition, including the Hitachi Global Foundation Asia Innovation Award 2022 in Tokyo. This accolade was awarded for his research and innovation titled “Providing Safe Water Sources for Drinking and Domestic Uses through the Development and Implementation of an Adaptable and Reusable Hybrid Material-Based Removal Method.”

5. Dra. Wega Trisunaryanti, M.S., Ph.D.,Eng.

Prof. Dra. Wega Trisunaryanti, M.S., Ph.D., Eng., is a Professor at the Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences (MIPA), UGM. She obtained her doctoral degree after completing studies at Osaka University, Japan, in 1997. Her research interests lie in materials, particularly catalysts and adsorbents (clay, zeolite, silica, alumina, carbon, and MCM-41) for fuel production processes. She is actively publishing her research findings in both national and international seminars and journals related to catalyst materials for the conversion of Buton asphalt fractions into fuel fractions. Currently, she is conducting research on the production of Jet biofuel (bioaviation fuel) from palm oil using a one-pot atmospheric reactor system.